The drive into Auckland alone was enough to ensure my fondness for New Zealand. The rolling green hills reminded me of my time spent growing up in the English West Country, except these pastures were directly situated beside pine trees which reminded me of my current home in Evergreen, Colorado. Sprinkled throughout were palm trees plucked straight from Hawaii! This ecological juxtaposition is so fascinating and absolutely beautiful. Driving around New Zealand has a calming or therapeutic feel to it. And even upon entering the urban center of Auckland, I was pleasantly surprised with the prevalence of trees and patches of green throughout the city.

Auckland impressed me in the brief time I spent there. I had the afternoon of our first day in country to explore the city and decided to walk down Queens Street to the city wharf. On the way, I met a New Zealand monk (dressed very differently from the typical Asian monk) and he and I had a chat regarding Buddhism. It was quite interesting and upon hearing that I have a preference for vegetarian food, he directed me to a great spot in the heart of Auckland where I happily ate a much needed, post-flight, recovery meal of all sorts of veggie goodness. After that, I made my way back to the hostel and turned in for the night.

The following day was spent largely traveling to Mimiwhangata, a coastal conservation park which would be our home for the following week. The Maori name translates to 'the smell of stale urine'. Legend has it that a tribal battle was fought long ago on the land over the destruction of a chieftain's fishing net. The bodies were left as a sign of disrespect (it would have been more respectful to eat them) to the opposing side. Over time as the corpses decomposed, the bladders ruptured leaking the urine into the field and resulting in an awful stench. The land was tainted in the eyes of the Maori for quite a long time by its brutal past. But Chris, the local Department of Conservation ranger, and his family have spent the last 17 years pouring their affection and hard work into the land. This sign of love and respect for the land hasn't gone unnoticed by the Maori, who say the land doesn't have as much of a bad feeling to it anymore.

Chris is intentional in speaking to his Maori neighbors in their native language and he taught us a Waitea (a song in Maori tongue), which is the traditional means of introduction for the Maori. We also learnt the traditional Maori greeting know as the Hongi. You shake hands and then touch noses. We visited a school with Maori children and met some of the community, greeting them with a hongi. It was a very intimate way of meeting someone - I instantly felt more comfortable and welcomed than I would have had we simply shook hands.

While in Mimiwgangata, I spent a day grubbing weeds and another splitting wood. Both activities were really enjoyable and captivating once I got into a sort of rhythmic groove. The motion becomes automatic after a short while. I intend to find a way to continue both activities while in Colorado. Less enjoyable was clearing and building paths and trails. It wasn't that it was difficult, in fact it was easier than grubbing and splitting, but I found it tedious and time consuming! It certainly lends a new level of appreciation to the trails I walk and bike routinely back home. Once I finished my work, I would typically spend the rest of the day either relaxing at the wool shed or going to the beach where I would have the options of kayaking, swimming, or reading. The water's cold but the view from the ocean of the land is fantastic! It ensured that I went for a swim regardless of the weather.

But perhaps the most surprisingly pleasant part of Mimiwgangata was the lack of access to the outside world. No cell service or wifi, no news (no Trump), and no obligations other than those to the land. I can't remember the last time I unplugged in this way. It was a great opportunity to reflect on my gap year thus far and to situate myself into New Zealand. And the night sky was an added bonus. I thought that Tiger Leaping Gorge in China would have the largest collection of stars I would see for some time, but Mimiwgangata was practically twice as densely lit! Camping under the stars was probably the best introduction I could have had to New Zealand.

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Author Austin Bryan Posted