Lucky me!

Lucky me; to start off where the last blog left off – in Halong Bay, is a good thing indeed. Halong Bay was the stuff of dreams – amidst a busy port of hundreds of beautiful junk style boats, our excited group boarded two elaborately beautiful wooden boats owned by brothers. While motoring out to our first stop, we were served an amazing seafood feast, bird-shaped napkins and all (doesn't take much to impress me). The thought emerged "how will they top this next meal?" I'm not the only one who professed to be in food heaven – fresh morning glory, whole stuffed fish, fried squid, chicken nibbles, to go on would be inviting trouble as I'm making myself too hungry.

Over the two days our trip guide, Khang (pronounced 'hung') took us out on some fun kayaking tours of some Halong Bay islands. There are over 1000 in all, beautiful karst cliffs soaring into the sky. The rock climbers in the trip were salivating eagerly. The two days passed in beach visits, swimming and games on the beach and numurous gastronomical celebrations – the crew did manage to top every meal, every time. The days wouldn't have been complete without jumps and flips off the top level of the boats. The Halong Bay experience was a great group relaxing and bonding time, with the inclusion of our newest buddy, Sabrina, who met up with us in Hanoi to join us for the remainder of the trip.

Hanoi followed Halong Bay. The capital of Vietnam, this is a city on the move. Shared bunkrooms and group meals both nights ensured more ammunition for the 'not so quotable quotes' page – where things you said without thinking first, end up recorded for others to laugh at, often. Hanoi saw us busy soaking up the many things this city has to offer – morning runs round the lake, with locals joining in the exercise – running, badminton, tai chi, people watching. Excellent bars were on offer for celebration of Jeffs birthday. Shopping, shopping and more shopping for some. Mothers, your daughters will be well dressed when they get home. Delicious feasts – one group dinner at a busy restaurant specializing in street food from all around Vietnam, which was fantastic. A walking tour provided exciting insights into Vietnamese life, taking us around the different themed streets (decorate your temple street, holiday street, silk street, tools and hardware street, hair product street?) and bringing, for myself, more opportunities to try crazy, unidentifiable but mostly delicious Vietnamese food.

From Hanoi we traveled to Hue, a quieter, beautiful town flanking either side of the perfume river (named for the 'perfume' smell when the flowers along its banks are in bloom). Here we all jumed on the back of a moto with a local driver and did a moto-tour of the sights. I found the Citadel awe-inspiring, with its old buildings being restored, beautiful columns and statues, as well as the gorgeous pagodas and tombs with their crumbling ruins.

Today the team is enroute to Hoi An, on the coast. I have come to Saigon a few days early with Emily Robin to sort out passport issues. This has brought with it the unexpected joy of discovering 15 cent yoghurt and deliciously, but ridiculously cheap meals next door to the guest house. Oh joy of joys!


Leo signing out.

SE Asia adventure!

Greetings from the lovely town of Sapa, Vietnam! SE Asia 2009 is still trekking, moto-touring, river running and experienceing life to its fullest. It has been a while since we posted and we wanted to update you on some of the highlights of our trip.

Prior to our arrival in Vietnam 2 days ago, we spent 10 amazing days in Laos. We began in the north in the little town of Luang Nam Tha. The Boatlanding Guesthouse was the perfect place to relax along the riverside and regroup after our 17 days in Thailand. We reminisced over the elephant rides, time spent in Karen villages and caving/rock climbing adventures in Chiang Mai. After relaxing and enjoying some of the best food Asia has to offer we were off again to trek into the hills. Our Laotian mountain stays were exciting and very different from the villages of Thailand. We enjoyed spicy jeows (an amazing local cuisine), rice wine that the chiefs love to share, and leeches that were a fun and not-so-fun suprise for many of us. After trekking it was off on a 3 day river journey. We began in long boats down the Nam Tha river then out to our big Mekong boat. Chilling out in the sunshine and bunkering down in an attempt to stay dry during the tropical down pours, it was a journey of contrasts that lead us to the ancient city of Luang Prabang.

Luang Prabang is beautiful, old and modern all at the same time. A totally chill enviroment that boasts the oldest temple in Laos. At 6am every morning the monks walk through the streets collecting alms for the day, a beautiful site to behold as their bright orange clothing contrasts the rising sun on the stone streets. Many of us enjoyed renting bikes and visiting local markets and everyone has thus far agreed that Laotian food is by far the best.

Our arrival in Vietnam was exciting, the fourth country in 27 days! We have been trekking and mountain biking in Sapa, a steep city on the edge of Mount Fanispan. Many of us have already fallen in love with the local culture, great food and adorable girls wearing some of the most elaborate and skilled textile clothing. They spin the cloth, dye it and then sew and embroider it into such phenominal outfits. It is hard to escape their charm because they are all so kind and their english skills are impressive! I think that we will all leave with a piece of their handiwork. Tonight we head back on the night train to Hanoi and then out to Halong Bay where we will spend a few days sea kayaking and soaking up some sunshine before continuing south.

SE Asia 2009 is sending our love to you all! We must say goodbye for now...but our adventure continues!

Hillary

Homeward bound

Here's the second and last trip missive - from Singapore airport as it happens so we are winging our way home already...when I last wrote we were staying in the Old Quarter of Hanoi which the students enjoyed exploring - streets that sell one thing each - shoe street, tombstone street, shirt street etc - quaint but a bit of a labyrinth and very easy to lose your way! Another early morning start saw us heading to Saigon, where we visited the war remnants museum and the graphic images chronicling details of the Vietnam War and especially Agent Orange were a sobering reality check for students. While in Saigon we also visited the Cu Chi Tunnels, which is just outside the city and a fascinating tribute to the ingenuity and resilience of the Viet Cong. Thousands of metres of tunnels on 3 different levels where people lived and hid during the war - there were babies born there and mini hospitals - small underground villages where people hid for up to 4 years. Remarkably inventive and stoic conditions to exsist within. A highlight for students was a visit to the Wildlife Rescue Centre where they got to hold pangolins and see endagered gibbons (their call is outrageous!), otters, lizards, bears and turtles. The bear bile trade is particularly cruel and unneccessary and the Australian manager informed the students of the inhumane conditions that those animals exsist within. Our trip leader had a close call with the resident leopard, which grabbed her bag through the cage and it wasn't letting go easily. We figured it was after Janine's money but the scratch she sustained on her arm was enough to give her large cred with the kids, who I think are all a bit jealous of her scar.

We farewelled the madness of Saigon's tooting streets for a day's sedate cycling through the pretty Mekong Delta - small lanes lined by coconut palms and quiet villages - it was great doing some exercise. There was a hairy moment when we 'mislaid' a couple of students, but happily we found each other again without too much drama. It did mean that students had to cycle in hot conditions until 3pm before reaching our lunch destination but not a complaint was heard. We did look longingly at the row of resting hammocks they had set up for us as we hot pedalled it back on track to try and make up time. Our final night in Vietnam we stayed on a floating homestay bodies weary and tummies happy.

Arriving in Cambodia the following afternoon was a contrast. The geography was quite different and the roads strangely quiet in comparison to Vietnam. The homestay in rural Takeo with Siphen and Mach was a relaxing haven and an antidote for weary travellers. Nearly everyone had run out of clean clothes so we quickly had the lines full before relaxing in hammocks or wandering around the rice fields.

The next day was unfortunately raining all day in Kampot where the students assisted with building a simple home for a mother and her twin daughters. Everyone got muddy and wet, but the satisfaction was high as the building came to fruition. Others visited Epic Arts, a facility that promotes and trains disabled and deaf youth in performing arts. The students donated money towards a long needed new set of traditional drums and watched rehearsals, conversing and sharing with the deaf students. There was a stretching session where some of our kids achieved positions they never thought possible with the harsh task master slapping their limbs into position. In the eveing our host Siphen, shared her personal story of the Khmer Rouge time with the students. Many found this an inspiring and moving day.

Our time at the homestay was too short and we left sadly for Phnom Penh the following morning, farewelling our gracious hosts.

Visiting the Genocide Museum, Toul Sleng, in the afternoon had students in a sombre mood. Hard to believe that nearly a third of the population of this country was killed during the Khmer Rouge time - numbers that compare with the Holocaust, but only 30 years ago. A last shopping visit to the Russian market was intense in a different way and most of us were struggling to accept that we only had one day left.

Our last morning was spent visiting the Killing Fields - one of 380 across the country - and paying witness to the horrific crimes that took place there. We also spent time at a school that is funded mostly by the french and assists poor children to achieve both basic and vocational education. There was lots of playground interaction here and our students enjoyed joining in games and showing pictures from home to curious Cambodian kids. After having a sumptuous buffet lunch at the training restaurant we crossed town to spend the afternoon at an orphange that houses and educates children rescued from living at the dump or from being trafficked, in very basic and crowded conditions. We were all touched when they greeted us with rousing renditions of The Wheels on the Bus and If You're Happy and You Know it before breaking into groups (20 kids per 2 Hagley students) for games and play. It was super hot and very intense noise and space wise. Our students were great, being human jungle gyms, teachers, facilitators and friends to a hugley smiley and excited bunch of kids living in very difficult circumstances. The students donated close to $1000 of fundraised money to this organisation as they struggle for funding but do such an important job trying to improve life and prospects for these children.

Students especially enjoyed their time in Cambodia and felt connected in a way that meant they could happily have stayed longer - heat, scoop showers, squat toilets and all! But last night saw us walking through flooded streets to have our farewell dinner and today we sift around Changi airport waiting to return home to our surreally privileged lives.

I believe they have learnt enormously - not only about the lives of those in this part of the world, but also about themselves and their capacities. They've coped well in some challenging moments and been a great group to travel with. Read their experiences at www.pacificdiscovery.org.

They've certainly earnt a week's holiday before returning to school in chilly NZ!
Cheers,
Rachel and Paul

In Phom Penh

We haven't been in the path of any typhoons, though sadly a lot of people in other areas of Cambodia and in Vietnam have. We did have an extremely wet day in Kampot, though, where we helped to build a simple pole house for a very needy family. We certainly hadn't expected goose bumps in Cambodia, but a few of us had them! And 2 hour's drive away, back at our homestay in Takeo, our washing was happily drying on the line. ( By the way, a few students commented on how much fun it was doing the washing, so parents take note!!) It's been full on since arriving in Phom Penh early this afternoon. Experiences ranging from the sombre to the hilarious. Dinner and the lure of cheap pedicures just around the corner from our guesthouse have probably put other bloggers on hold until tomorrow. The sight of a row of students reclining in comfy seats with their sweaty, wiggling little toes extended and being pampered was really something to behold.

Janine

We have a bit of a limerick competition going, that a few students have dabbled in. This one harks back to our time in Sapa, in Vietnam:
There was a H'Mong woman called Mi // who invited us all round for tea // First she offered us dog // then cat, snake and frog // and to wash it down hog-blood for free.